How to clean a leather bag: 5 steps for handles, stains, lining and edges

The handles are dark and shiny, the lining hides crumbs, sand and old receipts, and the edge paint has worn off at the corners. To clean a leather bag, it's best to work from the inside out: empty and shake it first, then deal with the lining, and leave the outside until last – using as little water as possible.

A handbag comes with us to the office, on the train and to the market; it gets put down on the floor and picked up with freshly moisturised hands. These five steps show how to clean smooth leather gently, tackle stains carefully and dry the bag in shape – and when to hand it over to a saddler or leather repair workshop.

Why handles, base and edges suffer first

Nowhere does a bag pick up as much grease as on the handles. Skin oil, hand cream and sun cream make them dark and shiny, and alcohol-based hand sanitiser can also attack the surface. The base and corners rub against floors, seats and table edges. On many bags this is where the edge paint that seals the cut edges wears away.

How much water your bag can take depends on the leather. Smooth leather with a protective finish can be cleaned with a slightly damp cloth. Natural, open-pored leather darkens at the first drop of water and develops a patina over time that cannot be cleaned away. Suede has its own rules – see how to clean suede.

1. Empty, shake out and vacuum the lining

Take everything out, including from inner and zipped pockets. Turn the bag upside down over the bin or on the balcony and shake out crumbs and sand. Then:

• Turn the lining inside out if possible, or open the bag wide.
• Vacuum corners and seams with the crevice tool on a low setting.
• Soak up leaked hand cream or make-up with kitchen roll first.
• Dab stains on a fabric lining with a well wrung-out cloth and a little soapy water, then with clean water, without soaking the outside.

2. Clean a leather bag: handles and straps with soapy water

For the handles and the outside, mild soapy water is enough. The Swiss consumer protection foundation (Stiftung für Konsumentenschutz) lists curd soap among the simple household remedies that replace many special cleaners; a saddle soap from a specialist shop also works.

1. Work up a lather with a little curd soap or saddle soap in lukewarm water.
2. Dip a soft cloth and wring it out thoroughly.
3. Wipe the handles all the way round with light pressure, then the straps, flap and sides, always from seam to seam.
4. Wipe again with a second cloth dampened with clean water only.
5. Pat dry and let the bag dry with the top open.

Test on a hidden spot first, for example under the flap. On natural leather, skip the water and use only a product made specifically for it. Vinegar, washing soda and bicarbonate of soda don't belong on the bag: they can dry out or stain it.

3. Treat stains with care

• Ballpoint pen: dab fresh marks on protected smooth leather with a cotton bud and a little soapy water. Otherwise use an ink remover made for leather, following the instructions and after testing on a hidden spot. Alcohol, nail varnish remover and hairspray strip the colour as well. More in our guide on how to remove pen ink.
• Grease and hand cream: dab off the excess, sprinkle a little cornflour on the fresh stain, leave it for a few hours and brush it off. No water.
• Water marks: moisten the whole panel lightly from seam to seam and let it dry evenly so that no new ring forms.
• Denim dye: wipe it off as early as possible with soapy water.

Mould: after months in a damp cellar, a fuzzy coating with a musty smell sometimes appears. The Federal Office of Public Health (FOPH) advises removing mould quickly and fixing the cause of the damp. Brush the coating off outdoors so the spores don't spread through the flat, wipe with soapy water and let the bag dry thoroughly. If the growth is extensive, ask a specialist. How to keep storage spaces dry is explained in our guide to mould in the wardrobe.

4. Touch up edges, corners and fittings

Edge paint protects the cut edges from moisture and fraying. If it has worn away, touch it up with edge paint for leather:

1. Clean the edge with a slightly damp cloth and let it dry.
2. Apply paint in the matching shade thinly with a fine brush, without touching the surface of the bag.
3. Let it dry and add a second thin coat if needed.

Light scuffs on smooth corners can be concealed with a tinted cream in the same colour. For designer bags, torn seams or split edges, a saddler or leather repair workshop is the better choice.

Polish buckles and fittings with a dry microfibre cloth; metal polish could get onto the bag. If the zip sticks, brush crumbs out of the teeth with an old toothbrush.

5. Dry in shape, condition and store properly

After cleaning, stuff the bag loosely with white tissue paper or a clean towel – newsprint can rub off onto a light lining. Let it dry open at room temperature, away from radiators, hairdryers and direct sunlight.

Once the bag is dry, apply a thin layer of conditioner and buff. Store it stuffed in a cotton dust bag, not in plastic and not in a damp cellar or attic. Stand it upright on a shelf rather than hanging it by its handles for long periods.

Common mistakes when you clean a leather bag

• Soaking it or putting it in the washing machine: the bag loses its shape, and glue and stiffeners come loose.
• Wet or disinfectant wipes: they dry the surface out and leave residue.
• Nail varnish remover or alcohol on ink: they strip the colour.
• Drying on the radiator: the material turns hard and cracks.
• Storing it in plastic: moisture gets trapped and mildew spots can appear.

For an overview of all types of leather, see our guide on how to clean leather.

Priority Clean editorial teamOur cleaning team from Alberswil, Canton of Lucerne, shares hands-on experience from move-out, house, office and window cleaning across Central and Northwestern Switzerland.