
After a hot August day in a crowded tram or a summer hike, your favourite white shirt shows it: yellowish rings under the arms. On dark T-shirts it's the opposite – white, chalky deodorant marks. To remove sweat stains successfully, it helps to understand that these marks are not just sweat, but a mixture of sweat, skin oils and deodorant residue that builds up wash after wash.
These five methods work on white and coloured clothes – and the most important rule comes first: don't pre-wash hot.
Why sweat stains turn yellow
Sweat itself is mostly water and salts and is almost colourless. The yellow colour develops when proteins and oils from the skin react with the active ingredients in many antiperspirants and settle in the fibres. Each wash that doesn't fully remove them adds a new layer, and heat from hot washes or the tumble dryer makes the residue harder.
On dark fabrics you more often see white marks: deodorant residue that hasn't dissolved. It's worth knowing which kind you have, because the treatment differs slightly.
1. Baking soda paste: the all-rounder to remove sweat stains
Baking soda is gentle, inexpensive and suitable for white and most coloured fabrics.
- Mix 3–4 tablespoons of baking soda with a little lukewarm water into a thick paste.
- Spread it onto the stained area on the inside of the garment.
- Work it in gently with an old toothbrush.
- Leave for 30 minutes to an hour.
- Rinse with lukewarm water and wash as usual.
For older stains, repeat once or twice before giving up. The Swiss consumer protection foundation lists baking soda among the simple household remedies that can replace many special cleaners.
2. Ox-gall soap for collars and cuffs
Ox-gall soap (sold as Gallseife in Swiss supermarkets and pharmacies) breaks down skin oils and protein – ideal for underarms, collars and cuffs.
- Moisten the area with cold or lukewarm water.
- Rub the soap directly onto the fabric.
- Scrub gently with a soft brush and leave for 15–30 minutes.
- Wash as usual.
Test on coloured items first, as the soap can lighten some dyes.
3. Citric acid for white cotton
Yellow, stiff marks on white cotton or linen often respond to a mild acid, which loosens deodorant residue.
- Dissolve 1–2 tablespoons of citric acid in about half a litre of lukewarm water.
- Soak the underarm area for up to an hour.
- Rinse thoroughly and wash.
Use citric acid only on white or colourfast fabrics and never on silk, wool or acetate. Don't combine it with other products in the same step.
4. Washing-up liquid for fresh deodorant marks
White deodorant marks on dark clothes are often easiest to remove while fresh.
- Dry marks: Rub the fabric against itself or use a clean nylon stocking to buff the mark away.
- Stubborn residue: Dab with lukewarm water and a drop of clear washing-up liquid, work in gently, rinse and wash inside out.
Choosing a deodorant that leaves fewer marks and letting it dry fully before getting dressed also helps.
5. Soaking for older stains and whole garments
When a shirt has built up stains over many washes, soaking works better than spot treatment.
- Fill a basin with lukewarm water.
- Add a scoop of oxygen-based stain remover (from the supermarket, suitable for the fabric) or a good amount of baking soda.
- Soak the garment for a few hours, following the product's instructions.
- Rinse thoroughly and wash at the temperature on the care label.
Here is an overview of which method suits which fabric:
| Fabric | Suitable | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| White cotton, linen | Baking soda, citric acid, ox-gall soap, oxygen-based stain remover | Chlorine bleach |
| Coloured cotton, synthetics | Baking soda, washing-up liquid, colour-safe stain remover | Citric acid without a patch test |
| Silk, wool | Mild wool detergent, cold water | Acids, rubbing, hot water |
| Sportswear | Washing-up liquid, sports detergent | Fabric softener |
Washing correctly: temperature, dose and drying
Energy-efficient washing and stain removal go well together. EnergieSchweiz recommends low temperatures, eco programmes and full loads, without increasing the detergent dose. The key is to pre-treat stains so the wash cycle doesn't have to do all the work.
- Turn shirts and T-shirts inside out.
- Don't overload the drum, so the water can reach the underarm areas.
- Air-dry treated garments and check them before using the tumble dryer – heat sets any remaining residue.
Common mistakes when removing sweat stains
- Hot pre-wash: Sets protein and deodorant residue in the fibres.
- Chlorine bleach: Can turn yellow marks darker and damages fibres.
- Tumble drying before checking: Heat makes remaining stains permanent.
- Scrubbing hard: Damages the fabric surface, especially on jersey.
- Too much fabric softener: Coats fibres and traps odours in sportswear.
For other everyday marks, see our overview of home remedies for stains, and if clothes still smell after washing, read about musty-smelling laundry.
Frequently asked questions
How do I remove yellow sweat stains from a white shirt?
Apply a paste of baking soda and water to the inside of the underarm area, leave it for up to an hour, then rinse and wash. For stubborn marks, soak the area in a lukewarm citric acid solution first. Avoid chlorine bleach.
Can I remove sweat stains from coloured clothes?
Yes. Use baking soda paste, ox-gall soap or washing-up liquid, after testing on a hidden seam. Avoid acids and bleach on coloured fabrics.
Does vinegar remove sweat stains?
Diluted vinegar can loosen deodorant residue on white cotton, similar to citric acid, but it smells and can affect some dyes. Rinse thoroughly and never combine it with chlorine products.
Why do my shirts get yellow under the arms?
Sweat and skin oils react with ingredients in many antiperspirants and build up in the fibres over many washes. Heat from hot washes and tumble drying fixes the residue further.
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